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Jeff Cable is a three time Olympic photographer, but he doesn’t specialize in shooting just sports. One of his favorite things to do is to shoot images at ni…
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D7100 has a Mirror Up shooting mode 😉
Get on it!!!!!!
1:06:35 would make for a cool tilt-shift miniature photo
He talks about some of his backup equipment in other videos. Believe it.
Jeff you dont need a bullet proof car and two body guards when coming to Argentina. First of all because it’s not that dangerous down here, and second of all, should we want to we can make them all disappear.
some useful tips in here, anyone else think a lot of the shots are cliche though? Still useful for technique though
I not sure I trust him when he says he never deletes an image – unless he doesn’t take many photos.
no offence but very simple pictures, frames also and not so interesting presentation talking about family and work traveling . better tell the people technique or settings how to surpass this simple work of buildings and rivers. night photography has story too.
He sooooo fast ;-(
Thanks for posting this…. very informative !
nice video. still, i was expecting a seminar about astrophotography.
Did he mention Olympics..??
Wow I enjoyed this very much thanks for sharing. Re: Image of the “Wheel in Melbourne ” You are one of few photographers who have captured that shot. The wheel was only operating for a month or so when a heat wave of temperatures of 45 degrees put cracks in the newly opened attraction. And they have been re building ever since. 🙂
Great presentation though, I’m going to go and try some night shooting, thanks.
17:00 you shot that photo in Bristol from the hard shoulder of the motorway? That’s pretty dangerous, no wonder the taxi driver did not want to stop.
howbout shooting inside the Night Club what are the best setting to use?
I got a Canon 5D Mark II I’m using a 24-70 f/2.8L is II
Great information! Love his energy!
@roshan raw On the 500D (T1i) you can reduce noise by turning on the Long exp. noise reduction. Do so by going to> Custom Functions, C.Fn-4 >Long exp. noise reduction > to 1:Auto or 2: On.
Be aware that the camera will shoot another long exposure, i.e. if you shoot 30 seconds, it will take another 30 seconds to make a “black frame” that will cancel the noise. You will be unable to shoot again until the camera is finished.
You can also use Canon’s included DPP software reduce the noise.
good information in this video but also…. “cameras are computers taking pictures… if the camera decides your shutter speed, why fight it?” i’m sorry but are you F’in kidding me Jeff? lol
Long exposure leaves blue and red dots? how can i reduce this also even at ISO 100 i am getting noise in my 500D Cannon , I am not sure how people get crisp picture from 1hr and 2 hr long exposure , Please tell me how to deal with this
thank you very much..:)
@Sovannvong1881 When doing night photography such as discussed in this video, there are not really any ideal automated modes on cameras to do it for you. The easiest way to set your camera up is to set the ISO to a lower setting (100-200) and set the camera?s exposure setting to the ?A? Aperture Preferred mode. The sent your lens? aperture to F8 or F11 and the camera will result the best shutterspeed for the shot.
which function is the best to shoot at night?
I tried all of that, was still getting globs at F8,F11,F16 so I’m assuming now that it’s just my vintage lens (Minolta 28mm F2.8 prime). I bought that Minolta lens because Sony for whatever reason has discontinued many lenses without saying why or when they will be making more….needless to say I’m probably going to leave their brand for something else.
@Vultite The best way to avoid flare is to use your lenses dedicated hood. Should the light source be in your shot, the smaller your f/stop opening, the less amount of flare the light will cause. Stopping your lens all the way down or past f/8.0 the light source will have a 4pt star or cross pattern.
Chuck
What’s the easiest and fastest way to preview the pictures on your iPhone ? 🙂
0:56:12
Astrophotography is a whole different bag then normal shooting, if you want really great results… First thing (especially for a 300mm lens) is to get a Equatorial mount and learn how to setup and how it works. Also you will have to have varied exposures and ‘stack them’ (combine them, to get extra detail and a higher dynamic range). Also making dark frames and light frames help. You can make your own dew heater like I have, which will help with dew. Check out some astro forums, good luck!
How would you combat lens flare while doing long exposure from light sources?
Brazil is not as bad as he said. I do night photography here and it is ok.
I believe you’ll need some sort of equatorial mount for your camera because the earth is rotating. In turn making all the stars blur for exposures of any length. Google ‘barn door mount’ for a DIY option to let your camera track the stars.
very nice of you to share these useful tips, for FREE!
Thanks for the upload I watched it and loved it
Keep in mind that you MUST be away from big cities, find a place where is dark (no big city lights). And your F4.0 lens wont do the job well, get a F2.8 at least.
@Twostones00 I would avoid using anti-fog type products on the lens, if you have fogging, try to acclimate your gear early by removing it from your kit bag prior to the shoot outside so as to avoid the fogging effect. You may also wish to consider keeping Silica desiccants in your camera bag to keep the moisture level down.
Y.O.
these presentations are more useful than paid stuff on lynda and kelby training.
The best way is to get a motor compensating for the earths movement- if youre dedicated.
Without- stars are very faint so aperture wide open and high iso are inevitable.
google “Star Circle Academy” great site for astrophotography
have fun
Thanks you very much. when the moon goes away i will be out there. Also do you use any antifog on the lens? I had a slight lens fog problem last time i was out at night.
@Twostones00 Basic rules for night photography apply. i.e. tripod, mirror up, remote shutter, usually low ISO and aperture 1-2 stops down from wide open. Exposure time you will have to experiment with. Keeping in mind you may encounter over heated sensor pixels if too long an exposure. With astrophotography, you will find to get better at it, you will spend more time in your digital dark room working to “stack” the exposures to get everything you can get out of the image.
@TheLilyLouise You can either simply walk in or reserve a seat online. Please see the following website for details: bhphotovideo(dot)com/c/find/EventSpace.jsp
Some of your work looks extremely like mixed lighting and I love it. Very well done, thanks so much for sharing some of your experiences…vik
thanks for uploading this, found it very helpful.
Laughing really hard at Jeff’s comment on being a photographer traveling with people who are not photographers. Been there SO many times. After 5 minutes, they’re all like let’s go you already took a picture didn’t you? They don’t get it …
Thanks for sharing the video. Great job by Jeff as always. He manages to keep my attention in these videos even though I’m a person with about zero attention span. Love them all.
Jeff thanks for everything and especially for the Olympics Blog it was excellent and felt as i was there good luck in the future and all the best and thank you for all these videos and tips, hope to meet you in Kosova one day …
Ahh a topic I’ve been awaiting to be covered, such an interesting & rewarding subject – thanks B&H
excellent
Loved the story with the free complimentary dinner at the end! Photography has its perks! lol